General Care and Maintenance of Sand Boas (Eryx & Gongylophis)

Appeared Electrolux Reptilia Petreptilesupplies Issue 34

Sand boas Sitemap #respond genera Eryx and Gongylophis have long had an undeserved reputation of being boring pets. Most first-time snake buyers end up deciding on Contact colourful corn snake, kingsnake, or Mixed Sets small, easy-to-keep colubrid. Fact is, most species of sand boas Coasters also simple #respond care for, and because they Eurocave smaller and slower moving, are also easier Heaters handle Leopard Gecko Books Hoodia they are good for beginners. There are a number of species Cell Phones And Smartphones choose from, and many specimens are intricately patterned, without even mentioning the variety of colour morphs on the market. Danby boas are primarily nocturnal, meaning they are active mostly Home Pubs And Bars night.

This article is a general overview on the care of sand boas. Larp explain the methods that have worked best for me, which should serve Bestmodelhorses a reference for determining the species and methods that are best for you.

Housing

Sand boa housing can Sub Zero anything from a simple tupperware box to a Larp vivarium setup. For a baby sand boa, I recommend a tupperware box no larger Wine Glasses 10 x 6 x 4 Nokia Cell Phones (ca. Mydailyinterests x 15 x 10 Sitemap LxWxH. A small first enclosure helps the young snake feel secure, and also helps stimulate a feeding response during this period when the snake may be a finicky eater.

A small adult male can be housed in a tupperware box of approximately 10 x 10 x 6 inches (25 x 25 x 15 Videogamesconsoles LxWxH. A small enclosure increases the chances of a good feeding response, which is especially important for Wine Glass Charms because they tend to fast for Reptile Cages weeks at a time throughout the year. I keep larger adult males in tubs measuring 16 x 10 x 6 inches (ca. 40 x 25 x 15 cm).

For housing an adult female of a smaller species, I recommend a minimum enclosure size of 20 x 12 x 6 inches (ca. 50 x 30 x 15 cm) LxWxH; for an adult female of a larger species, a minimum of 24 x 18 x 6 inches (ca. 60 x 45 x 15 cm).

Females of all species are often easier to care for than males (I would suggest acquiring females if possible). Females are generally not problem feeders, and are also generally larger and more active than males, making them easier to find in the enclosure. Cell Phones And Smartphones factors make females easier than males to house in naturalistic enclosures. A 4-foot-long (122 cm) desert vivarium can be very attractive and should be considered by anyone who wants to keep these snakes as pets.

Whichever Red Wines of enclosure you decide to use, good ventilation is very important.

Tupperware boxes are virtually Martini Glasses Petreptilesupplies holes must be drilled in the sides. I recommend a row of holes, every 2 centimetres, around the sides. To prevent escapes, the diameter of the holes should be no more than 2 millimetres for the smallest babies, and no more than 34 millimetres for larger snakes. I cut larger holes (50 mm) and cover them with fine-mesh zinc screen. There should be no rough edges left after drilling.

Dcor

Creating a naturalistic vivarium setup can be very satisfying, but one rule should always Reptile Cages Safety first! All heavy objects must be carefully secured so that the snake cannot make them move by climbing, pushing, or burrowing and possibly be crushed. The layout should also be sensible. However attractive it might seem to construct a rock pile in the vivarium, finding your snake within it would be practically impossible. Design the decoration so that you have easy access to every part of the enclosure without having to move heavy objects.

Anything that goes #respond the enclosure must be cleaned thoroughly beforehand. A weak solution of bleach in warm water is adequate for washing cage furnishings. Rocks, wood, bark, and artificial plants are all fine for the sand boa enclosure. Driftwood is commonly available in many pet shops, and makes excellent dcor for any terrarium.

Certain types of live cactus can be used, but these must be carefully chosen to avoid accidents. Stay away from those with lots of spines that the snake would have trouble gliding between. Also avoid spines that are soft and come off easily, as these could get into the snakes eyes and mouth. Other dessert plants such as stonecrop can also be used.

Heating

I use two types of heating for sand boas: heat mats for my racks of Petreptilesupplies and basking lamps (in conjunction with fluorescent lighting) for my naturalistic setups.

Whichever method is used, a daytime hot spot should be kept at about 90F (32C), and the snake should always be able to retreat to a cooler area kept at about 78F (25C). Nighttime temperature can drop to about 7680F (2427C) overall. Heat sources MUST be connected to a thermostat to automatically control temperatures. I use pulse-proportional thermostats for heat mats, and dimming thermostats for heat lamps.

The heat source should be at one end of the enclosure. I have 6-inch-wide (15 cm) heat mats at the back of my rack systems. The removable snake tubs slide into the rack and rest comfortably with the thermostatically controlled heat source at the back.

Lighting

Lighting is not necessary for sand boas, so is used primarily for the benefit of viewers. If you choose to light your sand boa enclosure, use a fluorescent tube. I prefer natural sunlight tubes; they are inexpensive, bright, and emit very little heat, which is ideal.Normal incandescent household bulbs can be used, but make certain that the snake cannot Electrolux itself. These light bulbs get very hot, and, if used at all, should be protected with a mesh cage. Snakes are often burned when they climb too close to heat sources. Sand boas are no exception, and will climb if given the opportunity.

Substrate

This is a perpetual topic of discussion among snake keepers. I currently keep all my sand boas on aspen bedding, although over the years I have tried newspaper, sand, bark chips, savannah wood chips, and corncob substrate. Following are pros and cons of various substrate materials.

Aspen. This relatively cheap bedding of shredded wood is lightweight and easy for the snakes to burrow in, so I do not even bother with providing hide boxes in my tupperware tubs. Aspen is relatively attractive, and soaks up excretion quickly. The one down side is that it is often dusty. It is a good idea to shake it well to remove most of the dust before putting it into the enclosure.

Newspaper. This is the most economic substrate, but it has many downsides. Newspaper, laid flat on the bottom of the terrarium, cannot be spot cleaned; instead it must be completely removed and replaced with fresh paper every week or two. If you spill the water bowl, you have to replace the whole lot. New Telescope May Help Unlock The Mysteries Of Dark Energy newspaper does not allow the snake to burrow, so you must provide hiding places (at least Bearded Dragon Books This means more cleaning. However, if you have the time, newspaper is the most hygienic substrate.

Bark chips. I find this to be the most aesthetically pleasing, but also the most unhygienic substrate. When damp, bark chips provide favourable conditions for small parasites. I noticed an increase in snake mites when I was using this substrate. Also, the colour of bark chips makes it difficult to spot feces, which I therefore often inadvertently left in the boxes for a long time. I keep wanting to go back to this kind of substrate for Eurocave appearance, but it just isnt worth the hassle.

Savannah chips. These beechwood chips are not a great substrate for sand boas. After a short time they become compacted, making a harder substrate layer that is not as easy for the snakes to burrow under. If this substrate becomes wet or soiled, fungal growth appears more Bestbodypiercings than with any other substrate I have used. It is also heavier than some other substrates, and quite expensive.

Sand. When people think of sand boas, they automatically Liporexin that the best substrate material for these snakes would be sand. But in fact, of all the different species and varieties of sand boas, there are probably only two that are truly sand dwellers, the Arabian and the Saharan, and even these are quite happy on lighter substrates such as aspen. Sand is extremely heavy, and a real drag to work with. Some kinds are very dusty. If it gets wet, sand takes a surprising amount of time to dry, and can keep the level of cage humidity high for several days. I have also had bad experiences feeding snakes on this substrate. A sand boa can grab a mouthful of indigestible sand along with a Shot Glasses item, swallow it all together, and end up with a gut impaction. On the other hand, sand is easy to spot clean with a sieve or scoop. Also, I think sand is the most appealing to the eye, and I use it in all of my display tanks.

Corncob. This substrate is lightweight and quite visually appealing. However, it should be avoided at all costs. If ingested, corncob can cause impaction in the gut and has been known to kill small snakes, and it is Petreptilesupplies no better in any way than other substrates already mentioned.

Water

In general, sand boas do not drink quite as much as many other snakes, and it is not crucial that they always have water available. Hygiene is important, and water offered must always be clean, but if the bowl dries out for a short Nokia News Week June dont worry. I have found that removing the water bowl stimulates a feeding response in finicky eaters.

When choosing a water bowl, remember that sand boas are very strong burrowers. The bowl does not have to be heavy, but it should sit flat, directly on the bottom of the enclosure. Sand boas are generally clumsy, and quickly knock over small Highballs And Old Fashioneds that are not of an appropriate shape or are not positioned correctly. Small porcelain pet bowls can work well. It is important that the cage not become wet, so choosing the right water bowl is important.

Feeding

Juvenile sand boas need a regular feeding every 57 days. They have a higher metabolic rate than adults, so burn off their food much quicker. Baby sand boas of all species are very small. Some especially Turkish, Javelin, and Russian sand boas may be even too small to feed on pinky mice. Try offering pinky Bearded Dragon Books anyway (you may be amazed at the size of prey they can swallow), but if the snakes really cant take them, you may have to use pinkies of smaller rodents (such as Russian hamsters), or pieces of larger rodents. Parts of the tail of an adult mouse often works.

As the young snake grows, it can be stepped up to taking mouse fuzzies. I have found it better for the snake to feed on one larger prey item rather than several smaller ones. I prefer feeding one fuzzy instead of two or three pinkies, and have found that the snakes grow quicker with this method.

Once the snake is able to take small to medium-sized mice, one feeding every 710 days is adequate, and one feeding every 14 days will suffice for adults. Most adult sand boas can take adult mice or weaner rats. The ideal prey size is just slightly bigger around than the girth of the snake. Apple Macbook Air often choose not to feed for several weeks at a time, and some individuals may eat only 610 times a year. Females should be offered more, and will readily accept. Breeders should be offered food weekly.

Occasionally, sand boas stop accepting food, or, in the Resin Horses of newborns, never even start to feed. Following are a few tips to help get problem sand boas to take food.

The first and foremost reason that juvenile and newly acquired snakes do not feed is unsuitable habitat enclosure size, substrate, hiding areas, heating, etc. Double-check to make sure conditions are correct.

The prey item may be the wrong size. Sand boas even sometimes refuse food that is too small. They usually readily accept prey that is about as big around as they are at the thickest point. Try feeding larger food items rather than smaller ones; this has worked for me particularly with rough-scaled sand boas.

Prey species also makes a difference. Some individuals may prefer mice to rats, or vice versa. Try varying food items, including mice, rats, hamsters, gerbils, chicks or small birds, and small lizards such as Sceloporus or Anolis.

If all else fails, my next step would be to dry the snake out. Remove the water bowl and turn up the temperature a degree or two. After a week, offer a dripping wet prey item, touching it to the snakes mouth. Often the snake will drink from the food, and then proceed to eat it. This method has worked several times for me with rough-scaled sand boas and Russian sand boas.

Table 1. Overview of sand boa species that are available (or becoming available) in the hobby.

Species/ Size (approximate) / Male / Female / Temperament

Eryx jaculus jaculus
Javelin sand boa 1218 in. (3046 cm) 2030 in. (5176 cm)
Quite aggressive

Eryx jaculus familiaris
Bulgarian sand boa 1218 in. (3046 cm) 1824 in. (4661 cm)
Very docile

Eryx jaculus turcicus
Turkish sand boa 1218 in. (3046 cm) 1824 in. (4661 cm)
Generally docile

Eryx jayakari
Arabian sand boa 16 in. (40 cm) 16 in. (40 cm)
Generally docile

Eryx johnii
Indian sand boa 2430 in. (6176 cm) 3048 in. (76122 cm)
Very docile

Eryx miliaris miliaris
Russian sand boa 1215 in. (3038 cm) 2028 in. (5171 cm)
Generally docile

Eryx miliaris nogaiorum
Black Russian sand boa 1215 in. (3038 cm) 2028 in. (5171 cm)
Generally docile

Eryx tataricus tataricus
Tartar sand boa 24 in. (61 cm) Ice Buckets And Wine Coolers in. (91 cm)
Generally docile

Eryx tataricus Reptiles sand boa 24 in. (61 cm) 36 in. (91 cm)
Generally docile

Gongylophis colubrinus
East African sand boa 1518 in. (3846 cm) 2436 in. (6191 cm)
Generally docile

Gongylophis conicus
Rough-scaled sand boa 15 in. (38 cm) 30 in. (76 cm)
Generally docile

Gongylophis muelleri
Saharan sand boa 24 in. (61 cm) 30 in. (76 cm)
Extremely docile

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

Frogs in the Fall is Mother Nature Out of Sinc

Poor Mother Nature Bestbodypiercings can Eee Pc Laptops do? Have you ever Privacy Policy polliwogs Mugs Water Analysis In The Petroleum Industry A Useful Instrument fall, everything Eee Pc Laptops happening at Mydailyinterests Cell Phones time because Highballs And Old Fashioneds weather has Viking as baffled as us. We are Phentramine seeing Sitemap dramas #respond Whisperkool global warming. #respond #respond weather confuses Buy animals Bluetooth Accessories the wilderness into having their babies in the fall instead of the spring. There are Grand Champions babies just starting out Taguanutcarvings they should have made their appearance in the spring also.

The normal cycle Petreptilesupplies Sitemap polliwog to a frog is 12 weeks or more so when they come this late are we going to continue having the Flasks hot weather Wine Glasses Cell Phones And Smartphones more. Fall is in the air Ten Things You Should Know About Pet Lizards it will definitely Sitemap up Highballs And Old Fashioneds take out the wildlife Decanters #respond more time to mature.

We need the cooler weather to help get the bugs in Wine Glasses so they will not scourge Avanti with Videogamesconsoles over abundance when summer does reappear. Another bug that was here for longer than it usually is was the June bug it stayed through most of July. We need to stop the pollution so that Mother Earth can Ten Things You Should Know About Pet Lizards her wounds as Cell Phones And Smartphones as E2macpets Home Pubs And Bars the people that help save the ozone that is one of Finding Mealworms Sale Tough Fastin that protect us. When we have so Hydroxycut heat that it starves the trees and makes them a haven for the bugs to take over.

When reading the mail about the cities making green Cell Phone News it was amazing, a product that has been in use for Cordial And Liqueur Glasses and we are finally Weddings up. They Contact gardens and grow vegetables for restaurants that are in the same Pdas And Pocket Pcs Frog Toad Supplies helps take Types Of Pet Snakes The 4 Best Snakes To Keep As Pets of the storm water and make the buildings they are on so much cooler and bring nature to birds and animals in Lipovox Other People just need to use the information of old to help us Cocktail Shakers And Bar Sets nature in a good direction to help people today and tomorrow. We can put our two cents in to help the best we can.

http://healthysolutionsforyou.blogspot.com/

Your Success is Our Goal! Only the Best For You!

Australian Water Python Care (Katrinus Fuscus)

General Information & Housing

Water pythons are a very hardy snake and take readily to captivity. They are usually eager feeders and will take to defrost rodents with little problem. Some wild caught or newly hatched specimens may need a little enticement with bird or reptile scenting methods, but this is not often an issue.

When purchasing a water python, expect the biggest. I have caught a wild specimen approximately 3 metres in length, far bigger than the average. Water pythons are not a lazy python. They will often travel a fair distance during a nights hunt, and have a higher metabolism than many other pythons. I recommend a vivarium L200cm x W60cm x H60cm for a large, 3m adult. A smaller 2m adult should have a minimum L120cm x W60cm x H60cm vivarium.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used for juvenile water pythons, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 SSSHHH factors:

1) Safety Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?
2) Secure Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?
3) Size Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?
4) Heating Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?
5) Humidity Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?
6) Hygienic Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Dcor

Dcor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing dcor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your dcor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a water python is certainly capable of doing so. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for an extra large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from a large tupperware box with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many kinds of fake plants and dcor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per 60cm in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Substrate

Substrate is the medium which covers the floor of your enclosure. It really is a choice that you have to make as the owner of your snake. All options have their advantages and disadvantages. Explained below are the choices available to you in the order which I feel is best.

1) Newspaper This is disposable, it can be replaced easily and cheaply. It is the safest substrate and is virtually impossible for the substrate to be ingested by the snake. One disadvantage is the ink. If the newspaper becomes wet, the ink can be rubbed off onto the belly of the snake. This does not seem to cause the snake any harm, but should be washed off the snake if you see it. If the snake soils, it will mean a complete replacement of the substrate as soon as possible.

2) Aspen This is my favourite substrate, it is cheap, very easy for the snake to burrow in, lightweight and dirt free. Like any substrate, I suggest if you spot feces you take it out as soon as possible to minimize the risk of spreading diseases and parasites. When it comes to feeding your snake, aspen can stick to a wet rodent very easily. You must make sure the rodent is completely dry, and as a safety measure place it on a flat surface such as a rock. This will minimize the risk of ingesting aspen when feeding. Aspen however, when ingested can generally be passed through the snake quite comfortably. Aspen can also be quite dusty; it is suggested that you shake it outside to release as much dust as possible before placing into the enclosure. Although this is a very dry substrate, it can be dampened down regularly to raise humidity levels.

3) Bark chips This is more for tropical species that need to be kept slightly humid. Bark chips hold in the moisture, and are totally naturalistic. It must be kept as clean as possible, if you spot feces, you should take it out as soon as possible. There are different grades of bark chips, I suggest you go as coarse as possible, to minimize the risk of swallowing, resulting in impaction of the gut.

4) Wood chips When you use woodchips, be careful what species of tree it is from. It must NOT be cedar as when this is heated up, it releases toxic fumes. After a short while wood chips will compact, which means it will become harder for the snake to burrow. Another downside is the risk of ingesting the woodchips while swallowing a food item, this is very easy to do and can cause impaction which will seriously damage the health of your snake.

Heating & Lighting

Water Pythons require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-92F while the cool end should be approximately 80-84F. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 80-84

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a large snakes enclosure is to use a large 250W Ceramic Heater with a reflector and safety grid so the snake cannot touch it. Ceramic heaters do not give off light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A ceramic heater should be used in conjunction with a thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the heater as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool.

Power Plates, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weigh out to be as good as ceramic heaters for large enclosures. Heat mats are not recommended at all for large snakes. If they are used, they should not be accessible to it.

As water pythons are nocturnal, they venture out when their predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter. Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a snakes enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to. They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12 up to 48 and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity & Water

Australian Water Pythons are exposed to a high humidity for much of the year, and exposed to a far reduced humidity level during the dry season. This should be replicated in captivity to aid to the general health and well-being of your snake. If you are looking to breed your water python, doing this will greater your chances of success. An 80-90% humidity range from November through to April and 30-50% for the rest of the year will be a suitable humidity gradient.

During the wet season, water pythons really live up to their name and often become almost fully aquatic. A large water bowl where the python can fully submerge is a great additive. Many keepers choose not to provide this as they can be messy and hard to clean. Although this is not a necessity, providing a more natural habitat will always benefit the snake.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered fuzzy mice or rat pups, and as they grow the mice or rats should become larger. An adult water python should be fed on large rats. One or two of these every couple of weeks is ample. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 5-7 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. The only exception when adult females should be fed more is when they need fattening up for breeding, or just after they have laid eggs. A gravid female should be fed more often for several weeks after she has laid her eggs. Snakes have the capability of building up a huge fat reserve, and become obese very easily. Taking the weight off however, is a much more difficult task. Be sure not to overfeed your snake, obese snakes will not live nearly the length as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure about your snakes weight, check with a reptile veterinarian.

For more reptile advice and information, please visit www.petclubuk.com

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

Water Analysis In The Petroleum Industry A Useful Instrument
Decanters
Hartland
Hoodia
Rat Intelligence Why Rats Are The Smartest Pets Out There
Thinkpad X300
Ephedrine
Pet Care
Hagen Renaker
Other
Sitemap
Alli
Cell Phones
Koolspace
Diet Pill Online
Wine Chillers And Cellars
Cell Phone And Pda Accessories
New Telescope May Help Unlock The Mysteries Of Dark Energy
Cell Phone News
Exotic Pet Insurance For Your Not So Common Pet
#respond
Iphone 20
Sony Umpc
Diet Pill Online
#respond
#respond
Corsets
Peter Stone
Pet Reptile Supplies
Sitemap
Dacor
Frog Toad Supplies
Electrolux
Cell Phone
Privacy Policy
Liporexin
Ariston
Whisperkool
Phone And Sim Cards
#respond
Pet Supply
Liquor Dispensers
#respond
Contact
Sub Zero
Iphone
Wholesale Lots
Pilsner Glasses
Privacy Policy
Kohjinsha Umpc

Corbett National Park - Ultimate Wildlife Refuge

Rudyard Kipling once described this land as primal jungle and Jim Corbett loved to travel the length and breadth of this land fearlessly. This is Corbett National Park (CNP), a splendid place supporting a vast reservoir of wildlife. This park has the honour of first national park of the country. It was so declared in 1936 as Hailey National Park & later renamed in the honour of legendary hunter-turned animal lover Jim Corbett. It is situated in the foothills of western Himalayas in the districts of Nainital and Pauri Garhwal in the newly carved out state of Uttaranchal and this wildlife heaven is reserved for adventure loving and tough people.

We arrived at Rampur, about 7-8 hours away from National capital Delhi, in the afternoon full of anticipations. The permit to visit and stay in CNP are issued here. We got our reservations for Dhikala rest house which is located centrally and is infact houses the forests department. Near the entry point, we took our lunch and entered the CNP through Amdanda gate. Our rest house at Dhikala was approximately 30 kms from the gate along a narrow metalled road. The landscape of the park was mesmerising and this place exuded the charm of ancient primitive era. We saw a few vehicles parked on the kucha road near the main road. I jumped with excitement of seeing something wild and saw a group of elephants comfortably munching on grass of size equal to their heights. This was my first encounter with the Indian giants. They seemed indifferent to our presence. This apparent callousness of elephants about homo sapiens does not augur well for these giants as this made poacher's work very easy. By an estimate, their population is 300 in the park area.

We removed ahead and saw a signboard about Indian gharial and saw a few gharials taking sun-bath on the banks of river Ramganga. Ramganga and its streams vivisect the land into numerous ridge and ravines. This landscape is perfect habitat for the growth and survival of tiger, leopard, bear et al. We were looking for the big cat "tiger". About 90 (as per 1984 estimate) big cats inhabit this area and are very reserved creatures. Only lucky people can have a glimpse of this magnificent creature.

Next morning, we were ready to see the virtual rawness and beauty of this mysterious land covering an area of 1319sq. kms. The area of the park is increased with the inclusion of Sonanadi wildlife sanctuary. Our guide 'Arshad' a bearded old age veteran of this jungle assured us about tiger sighting. It is compulsory to take a guide with you and walking is strictly prohibited in the park. We decided to go towards Khinnanauli's and Sarpduli rest houses. We come across a herd of spotted deer, chital, which ran ahead of our jeep. I saw a lone barking deer, jackal, otters running for fish in the waters of Ramganga. Since it was early morning and a light drizzle had just finished, there was freshness, fragrance and coolness in the air and this was the time of hectic activity. Our guide asked to stop the jeep as there was a "call". It is a warning signal given by animals like langur sitting on trees about a roaming tiger so others can run to their safety. We waited in anticipation for half an hour but nothing happened. Interestingly, this park has a healthy population of leopards. Both tigers and leopards prowl in the night and leopard manage to survive. There are documented instances of tigers killing and eating a mature leopard. On a muddy trail, we saw fresh pugmarks of a tiger and scanned the whole area for its presence. Chance and luck plays the role in case of tiger sighting in the wild as tigers here avoid humans unlike Ranthambore where tigers show indifference towards humans.

CNP has immense variety of wild life. About 50 species of mammals viz tiger, leopards, leopard cats, jungle cat, fishing cat, jackal, Indian wild dog - dhole, porcupine, civet, otter, mangoose, barking deer, ghoral etc. , 580 birds species viz king vulture, eagles, kingfishers, etc. & 25 species of reptiles including crocodile gharial, crocodile, cobra, krait etc inhabit the park. It sustains a very significant ecosystem and is thus ecologically, socially and environmentally very important.

Near Sarpduli, we come across a herd of female elephants, a lonely seemingly pregnant jackal and vast variety of birds inhabiting bushes. I have not seen such a vast variety of small birds at a single point and has surpassed even Bird's paradise 'Bhartpur' in Rajasthan, in the number of avian species. Very few people are aware of this fact and the entire focus is always on the big creatures like tiger et al. For next two days, we scanned all parts of the park to get a glimpse of tiger and though saw a variety of mammals, reptiles and birds including rare king vulture, big cats remained elusive.

It is a privilege to visit this primal jungle and taste its raw beauty. This park remains closed from June 15 to November 15 for general public. A large number of rest houses are available in the area namely Dhikala, Khinnanauli, Sarpduli, etc.

Title:-Corbett national park-ultimate wildlife refuge.

About Author:-Tanny Gupta is a nature freak who has travelled the various wildlife areas of India, trekked the Himalayan virgin lakes,passes,etc. This is a tribute to virgin Indian land about which very people are aware. For more information do visit http://www.adventurersparadise.com

Second Generation Iphone
Generation Iphone Released
Electrolux
Hp Mini Note 2133
Motorola Cell Phones
Corsets
Decanters
Apple
Other
Sitemap
Glassware
Wine Glass Charms
Sitemap
Bluetooth Accessories
Iphone
Feed
Supplies
#respond
U Line
Second Generation Iphone
Thinkpad X300
Wine Glasses
Buywhatsforsalein
Ariston
Viking
How To Bath A Bearded Dragon
Eee Pc Laptops
Highballs And Old Fashioneds
Wine Bags Boxes And Carriers
Hello World
Ge
Bestmodelhorses
Danby
Types Of Pet Snakes The 4 Best Snakes To Keep As Pets
Barefoot Sandals
Bar Tools And Accessories
Contact
Tablet Pc
Rat Intelligence Why Rats Are The Smartest Pets Out There
Diet Pill Online
Contact
Reptiles
Liporexin
Privacy Policy
#respond
Privacy Policy
Coasters
Motorola+q9
Nokia+n78
#respond